Facts

A WORD ON OUR FINISHES
While there are many finishes accepted for acoustic instruments, Bruce prefers the traditional nitrocellulose lacquer and real varnish finish over the faster drying, stiff and hard catalyzed finishes.  The advantage is that they are thinner and bond well with the woods. Carved instruments move around quite a bit and these finishes allow that movement.  Also, a thinner finish achieves more volume and enhances the true tone of the instrument.

However, not being catalyzed, nitrocellulose lacquer and varnish will show wear and checking over time.

We use non-catalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer and varnish, air-dried and cured over a period of time before buffing and set-up.

GLOSS
Approximately eight coats are sprayed on, over a three day period, which is ultimately wet sanded to 1500 grit until the lacquer thickness is only .005, or five thoundsanths of one inch. It air cures for at least 2 weeks before being buffed to that high, perfect sheen our instruments are known for.

SATIN
Weber uses the same nitro-cellulose lacquer for our satin instruments. Over time this finish rubs to a semi-gloss on the neck, where the players arm rests, the back, and anywhere friction occurs according to how the instrument is held by its player.

SPIRIT VARNISH
Our Spirit Varnish is a blend of Super Blonde Shellac Flakes, Gum Mastic, and Gum Sanarac. It's a long laborious process, and produces the most desired and sought after instrument finish. We offer varnish buffed to a high gloss or hand-rubbed, which gives the look of a vintage satin. Because of its nature and thinness, varnish acquires a patina over time, moulding itself to the grain patterns in the wood of your instrument. 

NORMAL FINISH WEAR
There are two types of instruments: those that have checks and those that will. Professional musicians' favorite instruments will look like they've been played-a lot. The only time your instrument will look pristine is when you take it home from the store.  As soon as you begin playing it, and overtime your Weber will show the same signs of loving use, each scratch, ding and check adding to it's history and personality.

-Instruments, especially carved instruments, will move around with climate changes, shrinking and expanding with changes in heat and humidity which can and will cause checking . 

-Traveling with your instrument and jamming outside will cause wear.

-Oils from your arm and hands will gradually affect the finish.  However there is a small percentage of people who's perspiration will highly react with the finish creating a foggy, white area and/or wearing it off or separating it from the neck wood very quickly. Many players will have the neck stripped and oiled for ease of play anyway, this is a good solution to the perspiration problem, too. Wiping the 'touch' areas after play will help, and if your instrument is showing signs of total finish removal you may need to cover your arm where it sits on the instrument during play.

-Insect repellants will damage your finish. Causing dimpling, softening, and in extreme cases the lifting of the finish from the wood, all of which is costly to repair. Apply your bug stuff and clean your hands before you open your case or handle your instrument.

-Bare wood showing through on the outside of your instrument is not advisable as the elements will eventually start breaking down the wood and finish at these points. If these are small areas, especially on the points, a small dab of clear fingernail polish will seal these areas.  However do not hesitate to contact us with any questions/concerns.

-Just as your frets will gradually wear with play, the finish will show wear. These signs of active use will  give your instrument a patina that all instruments eventually show. None of these things will affect the integrity of the instrument itself- in fact, extreme play, will only improve the sound and tone of your instrument.

1.  Satin Finishes
This finish rubs to a semi-gloss over time according to how it is held by its player.  To clean any fingerprints, rub the finish very lightly with a barely dampened cloth (a cotton T-shirt would do the trick), or rub very lightly with an extra fine steel wool to remove dirt or stains. *NOTE: The more and harder you rub, the more your satin finish will buff up.

2.  Gloss Finish
Many polishes may be appropriate for cleaning our gloss instruments, however you should always test an area first, and we can not guarantee the results of a particular brand.  Here at the shop we have used 3M Imperial Hand Glaze for years, which is available at your local autoparts store. When applied and removed with a clean cotton cloth, the glaze will give a new shine to the finish and remove some light pick scratching.  DO NOT use canned air to blow dust from your instrument as the propellant can freeze, cracking your finish.

3.  True Spirit Varnish Finish
Our spirit varnish is our premier finish, and can be cleaned similarily to our lacquer finished instruments.

4. Never put a humidifier inside your instrument. Over humidification will damage your finish, and eventually the instrument itself.